The good, the chic and the bland

Editorial • 01/03/18

Dries Van Noten

On Wednesday afternoon a pristine white runway at the Hotel de Ville set the scene for what was Dries Van Noten’s AW18 ready to wear collection. What Dries Van Noten did in short, was deliver. His consistency in sophistication, is etching his way into the Parisian designers hall of fame.

He delivered “Complete spontaneity, It was about being spontaneous, having a free hand. Prints by an uneducated artist, just drawn.” words uttered by Van Noten backstage. These words referring to the intricate biro-esq prints that defined the collection, that took three months to come together.

The shapes blending in and out. His relaxed formal eclecticism, mixed with masculine tailoring, are a reinforcement of his consistency and allure. A theme present in many brands trying to relate to millenials in saying ‘we are not streetwear but if your cool enough you could pull this off,’ Yet Dries delivers with a left bank coolness. Casual drawstring and parachute dresses were elegant, mongolian lamb coats, coral and black tones to whimsical biro clad blue skirting. Left no doubt Dries Van Noten had arrived and left his mark on PFW

Saint Laurent 

Very few designers are capable of Anthony Vaccarello aesthetic. Constant sex appeal, a blast of french disco yet not trashy. Saint Laurent has become a constant go to for the night out statement outfit.

Vaccarello knows what a certain woman wants, as a result, each collection brings a razor sharp image, that is uncomplicated. Many feel that Vaccarello is not for them but at least they know what he produces is an ideal allure.

His show is emphatically black, black drain-pipe trousers and black hot pants with its customary razor sharp ankle and knee boots set off by wide shouldered short dresses and with a new addition of black fedoras. ¾’s of the way through the same outfits came teetering out this time in a floral blast. Mirroring the same shapes. So take your pick floral or black?

Maison Margiela

At Margiela, John Galliano delivered his trademark aberration from normality. A series of oversized items from what looked like space-aged roadside sweeper gear, to obesity proof streetwear. Flaps, hoods and 95 pockets per item later, you got his jist. Surprisingly no front rowers were hit with the abundance of fabric venturing past. Put it like this, if the Balenciaga triple S trainers were to be swapped in, they would have looked subtle.

Lanvin

“Sport/classic, luxury/cool.  I feel like women today want to mix everything.” This was Olivier Lapidus’s second collection. And that generic statement sums up the house. A lack of precisions, with no acknowledgment to the past. Lanvin, as we noted on the arrival of Lapidus in a previous article last year needed something special, yet he has failed to deliver that anywhere. The show was considered safe and silk wrapped. It was tiring just like Lanvin. The company was recently sold to Fosun International, a Shanghai-based group, so no doubt more change is a foot.

 

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