PFW ss18 The shows that caught our eye...
Pierpaolo Piccioli has been interrupting his daughter’s homework… His eldest is currently studying ‘The Frenzy of Orlando’ a renaissance poem by Ludovico Ariosto from 1516. She recently shared the work explaining that within the poem this was the first time the moon was referenced as a physical place. Well let us say, he was hooked. His Valentino SS18 collection took this into a account not under sci-fi but as a parallel universe.
Opening looks saw plastic sheeting morphing into a utilitarian sportswear, whilst the rest of the collection was filled with archetypal elegance from the neck down in either floral filled or blocked out colour.
Seems like Phoebe Philo had a thing for rain… “When it's raining, sometimes I'll put my coat over my shoulders with my bag underneath to protect it." That gave rise to the new 'double trench' … Philo has always had a penchant for ultra luxurious fabrics when it comes to overcoats, well she is british and you certainly cannot find fault in her approach.
“The shape was derived through experimentation. "It started with customising trenches and just draping them, playing with them, putting them on the shoulder."
Thinking we were in a different era for the majority of the show, Philo clearly stated "I got really interested in this 1970's Céline woman," she also had the 80’s woman in mind as well, when circling back on her theme of ‘Optimism’ ... “ I looked a little bit at designers in the Eighties and they just seemed to have freedom and optimism... Pre-AIDS." Nicely put Phoebe.
Demna Gvasalia, is making his mark on the Balenciaga house. His PFW SS18 show showed both growth and confidence, he knows what works. His mid-thigh skin like boots came down the runway some clad in dollar bills, some with the union jack. Other elements saw newspaper print clad shirts with Demna stressing, “The text means nothing, and the pictures are just pictures of happy people. I wanted some happy news. Fake news, but fake good news.”
Oversized also had its place again in the bags department, injecting a Vetements esq style into the house (his other Parisian street-cult brand he runs). And it was all going so well under the brooding soundtrack of Angel from Massive Attack until ‘IT’ happened. ‘IT’ being, if you have not seen already, the viral, ‘platform croc shoe’. I do not have the heart to continue discussing. Demna please do not toy with our emotions like this.
Comme des Garçons Rei Kawakubo's, Comme des Garçons expresses sheer fantasy at each collection. Yet believe it or not, and as hard as this is to say, probably her most wearable collection in years. When asked about her collection she uttered 2.5 words “Multi-dimensional collection”. In short; Manga characters, renaissance fruit and cartoon cityscapes all in extra extra extra large proportions as normal.
Lasting note, our previous article mentioned the arrival of Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy. Well post show we have two comments which sum up the perceived division of the house… Givenchy CEO Philippe Fortunato, “Appointing Clare Is My Biggest Achievement” whilst @Rob_Nowill commenting on Givenchy PFW SS18 'I feel there is no direction, no design, it's just stuff.
6) Comme des Garçons